Egypt on your Own
(Published in Travelage West, Oct. 2007)

Your clients are quintessential independent travelers—no tour groups for them.  Don’t hesitate to send them to Egypt.    Many US-based tour companies specializing in Africa and the Middle East can easily arrange all components of a successful vacation for just one or two people. 

I should know.  This past April, I arranged to meet my daughter and three of her work colleagues in Cairo for several days of city sightseeing followed by a leisurely Nile Cruise.  My arrival was timed to coincide with the completion of their D.C.-based organization’s meeting at the Cairo Marriott.  Our goal was to see as much of ancient Egypt in a week as we could.   STI Travel based in New Jersey with head offices in Cairo helped us realize this goal.

My early arrival into Cairo on Egyptair was a sign of good things to come.  So was the efficiency of the tour company’s transfer representative as he assisted me through the confusing process of clearing immigration, claiming luggage, and changing money.

Located on leafy Zamalek Island in the heart of Cairo—a half hour drive from the airport, the Marriott offers the convenience of a centrally located hotel, but one which is far enough away from the insanity of Cairo traffic to offer peace and tranquility after a day of sightseeing.

The 5* hotel’s ornately gilded entrance portico shielding the terra-cotta colored Moorish-style palace barely hints at the opulence that greets guests entering the lobby:  carved wooden ceilings, walls lined with handsome 19th century oil paintings, pleasant lounging areas with comfortably appointed plush chairs, vistas down the wide grand staircase and out to the lush green gardens and sparkling pool.  This elegant palace was built to house France’s Empress Eugenie and her entourage celebrating the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869.

Two modern-style high-rise wings at either end of the palace seamlessly blend the old and the new.  Recently renovated rooms have typically Marriott-comfortable beds, large bathrooms, and balconies with views of the Cairo skyline over the Nile River or the hotel’s six acres of garden.
 
In addition to offering a choice of good restaurants on site including Italian, Thai and an American steakhouse, authentic Egyptian food, music, and belly dancing can be enjoyed at the Egyptian Nights café. And, if time permits, gambling can be indulged in at the hotel’s Omar Khayyam Casino.

For a day and a half, I have fun exploring the hotel’s delightful neighborhood.  Small shops, art galleries, restaurants, book stores, a ceramic museum are all within an easy walk.  A nearby wide promenade along the Nile leads to the Cairo Opera House and Modern Art Museum surrounded by beautiful gardens. Feluccas, their white sails billowing, gently drift by.  Large river barges converted to restaurants and night clubs are tied up at the long quay below. A short caleche, horse-drawn carriage, ride brings me back to the hotel

All throughout the area, and as I discovered all throughout Egypt, Tourist Police are posted.  One or two armed men are housed intermittently in small wooden shelters along the streets to keep an eye on traffic and general comings and goings. They are also posted at the entrances to hotels restaurants, museums, mosques, all public buildings and sites.   At first I found them off-putting, but gradually learned to appreciate their deterrent value.

With only good words to say about the Cairo Marriott staff in accomplishing a successful meeting, my daughter and her colleagues are ready to join me for two days of organized sightseeing.

We began with an early morning departure to see the three great pyramids of Giza. Over 4,000 years old, they are amazingly just a 25-minute drive away in a Cairo suburb on the west bank of the Nile. Their imposing golden triangles rise abruptly from the hilly desert.  A huge golden sphinx carved from limestone bedrock guards them.  Taking us there in a comfortable mini-van are our own private guide and driver.

Maja, our guide, is an Egyptologist with a wealth of historical information and a provider of lots of practical do’s and don’ts.  Under her tutelage we climb onto the enormous blocks that make up the Great Pyramid, ride camels, and scramble through the claustrophobic pyramid tunnels.  

Our touring consists of standard sightseeing—but oh what sights!  Heading south to the ancient city of Memphis and burial site of Saqqara with its prototype step pyramid, we stop en route for an arranged lunch with delicious meze, Middle Eastern appetizers, and freshly caught fish. The road follows a tree-lined canal some 10 miles thru rural Egypt. Field after field is planted with wheat, corn, and other crops.  Water buffalo share the road with cars. 

Of course, there are the obligatory stops for shopping at a papyrus gallery and a rug making school.  But we all need souvenirs and the demonstrations are informative and pleasantly presented.  It’s a win/win situation as far as we are concerned.

Our next day’s sightseeing in the heart of Cairo includes a visit to the nearby Egyptian Museum.  The Museum’s King Tut relics with his golden desk mask are spectacular, but the preserved mummy exhibition is unrivaled.  Mummified remains of some of Egypt’s most fabled rulers are readily available for an up close look.

Later, as we walk through the narrow, twisted alleys of Old Cairo, the Muslim call to prayer follows us.

Our 3-day Nile cruise adventure begins with an early morning flight south to Aswan.  Much to our delight, Maja is accompanying us.  We know we are in good hands to see and experience all Upper Egypt has to offer.

We are met at Aswan airport by the tour company’s mini van and driver and explore the Unfinished Obelisk Quarry and the Great Aswan Dam before boarding our ship for lunch.

The 5 stars superior M/S Monte Carlo that will return us north—down the Nile—to Luxor has 66 cabins on 3 of its 5 decks.   Classified as Junior Suites, all are good size for a ship, made up in twin or king bed-configurations with bathrooms accommodating a full-size tub, plenty of mirrored closet space, and large picture windows.  A comfortable lounge chair, television and desk/bureau round out the furnishings. 

Commissioned in 2002, the ship has an elegant marble foyer, full-size lounge with entertainment in the evening, and a separate dining room serving 3 ample buffet meals a day with views out either side of the passing river scene.  Only drawback: there is no elevator which can pose difficulties for anyone who has trouble using stairs.

The top deck of the ship is open and runs the length of the ship.  A small dipping pool is forward surrounded by chaise lounges; the aft half is shaded with plenty of generously spaced tables and chairs.  A full service bar open throughout the day and early evening occupies part of this space.  A modified high tea is also served here in the late afternoon.

Slowly the Nile Valley scene drifts by—rock caves, distant deserts and mountains, farmers tilling their green fields, school children being ferried across the river, dramatic sunsets.

Maja, in addition to imparting her valuable knowledge about Egyptian antiquities, ensures that our excursions to see the temples along the way go smoothly.  In addition to mini vans, we ride in small motor boats, feluccas, and horse-draw carriages.  We are limited to viewing three tombs in the Valley of the Kings on the West Bank at Luxor, but are not disappointed in the choices available.

A fitting end to our Nile sightseeing is a nighttime exploration of the illuminated Temple of Luxor on the East Bank of this mighty river.  The temple’s rows of towering papyrus columns bid us good-bye.

• Reservation Contacts:
• STI Travel USA (member of Sakkara Travel Group based in Cairo), 235 Main Street, Ste 202, Hackensack NJ 07601, 1-800-570-0304 (tour, cruise, hotel arrangements)
• Royal Trans Travel, 5904 Kennedy Blvd, West New York, NJ 07098, 1-201-453-8899 (consolidator airfare)
• Marriott Hotels, 1-800-831-1000, www.marriott.com

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